Documenta 14’s New Stop: Helena Papadopoulos’s Guide to Athens
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“Documenta,” synonymous with Kassel, Germany (the city of Brothers Grimm), has taken a trip to Greece this year. Held every five years, “Documenta” is one of the most prestigious exhibitions of contemporary art, and is often referred to as the ‘MuseDocumenta 14’s New Stop: Helena Papadopoulos’s Guide to Athens
“Documenta,” synonymous with Kassel, Germany (the city of Brothers Grimm), has taken a trip to Greece this year. Held every five years, “Documenta” is one of the most prestigious exhibitions of contemporary art, and is often referred to as the ‘Museum of 100 days.’ It opened in Athens on April 8 and will be on view through July 16.Even as “Documenta 14” comes visiting, Athens is busy grappling with various crises — from the aftermath of global humanitarian disaster on one hand to more local economic and political ones. However, despite the problems, Athens is nurturing a quiet renaissance, where the city’s culinary landscape and the arts are coming together. We speak to local resident Helena Papadopoulos, director, Radio Athènes, a contemporary art institute, to get a lowdown on how to make the best of the city while visiting “Documenta 14”. What would you recommend to the visitors to get a taste of the local arts scene? Don’t miss the Greek architect Dimitris Pikionis’ “Paths and Pavilion” in the Filopappou Hills. There are many excellent works in all the venues. I was particularly struck by Sedje Hémon’s oils on canvas, all dated 1963, and Lala Rukh’s drawings and animation at the Athens Conservatory, and Bia Davou’s works from the mid-1970s at the Museum of Contemporary Art. Try to catch the program of the Listening Space dedicated to all things related to sound. There are many notations and preparatory sketches for theatre and music productions in many exhibition spaces worth following. “Documenta 14” is spread all over the city, so by just following the venues will give a good sense of the whole thing. Another spot to visit is the Asteroskopeion where the Neon Foundation is presenting a new project.What places do you recommend for authentic Greek food in Athens? Saita in Plaka, Ama Lahei in Exarcheia, Yperokeanion in Piraeus, Papadakis in Kolonaki and Nolan in Syntagma, though the latter is also inspired by Japanese cuisine.Are there any local festivals taking place during the summer? The Athens & Epidaurus Festival, which takes place every year May-October brings amazing productions in great outdoor amphitheaters and other venues.Can you recommend some places for chilling out after dusk? There are some great wine bars such as Heteroclito; for drinks and music, one can check out Cantina Social, Bios, Six d.o.g.sWhat is your take on the alternate art scene in the city? Street art reflects the anxieties, anger and frustration of living under enormous social, economic and political pressures.Greece is going through a tough time; do you think that has affected the arts in some way? How do you think Athens will benefit from “Documenta 14”? The art scene has always been in crisis, even before the crisis. There is a lot of energy at the moment with many independent spaces doing great work side-by-side private foundations and initiatives. I think that the experience of “Documenta 14,” both during the two-year preparatory stage and its actual inauguration, has played a catalytic role and has revitalized the local scene.What is the best way to move around in Athens? Subway and taxis, which are inexpensive compared to other cities.Any shopping recommendations for local artefacts and fashion? The flea-market in Monastiraki, Martinos Antiques in Pandrossou in Plaka, Rebecca Camhi Gallery Shop for ceramics and jewelry by contemporary artists, the Benaki Museum shop, the Cycladic Museum shop, Zeus & Dione, Two is Company and Radio Athènes are great places to check out. Read more