The Many Pleasures of Madrid
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For its 38th edition, ARCOmadrid (February 27-March 3) will draw 203 galleries from 30 countries worldwide, attracting new participants like Meyer Riegger from Germany, Rodeo from England, and Edward Tyler Nahem from the US.Over two-thirds of the galleries arThe Many Pleasures of Madrid
For its 38th edition, ARCOmadrid (February 27-March 3) will draw 203 galleries from 30 countries worldwide, attracting new participants like Meyer Riegger from Germany, Rodeo from England, and Edward Tyler Nahem from the US.Over two-thirds of the galleries are international, and nearly a third of those are from countries throughout Latin America. Peru is the fair’s guest of honor; Sharon Lerner of the Museo de Arte de Lima will curate a selection of 23 artists from 15 galleries as an introduction to the scene. The “Peru Forum” will discuss Peruvian Contemporary art with insights from visual artist Fernando Bryce, art historian Natalia Majluf, and independent curator Max Hernandez Calvo, among others. Peru will further make its presence known by way of different initiatives in the city’s art centers, like El Instante Fundacion and Fundacion Banco Santander.Other sectors at the fair, like “Opening,” will focus on galleries existant for less than seven years — Barcelona’s Bombon Projects, Milan’s Climate, San Juan’s Embassy and São Paulo’s Se — while the “Special Projects” arm will scatter large-format works by artists like Waqas Kahn, Sandra Gamarra, Jaume Plensa, Sol Calero, Jorge Piqueras, and Engel Leonardo.We spoke to ARCOmadrid’s director, Carlos Urroz, about linking up with Latin America, the continued merits of vintage Almodovar, and restaurants that serve locallygrown vegetables.How long have you been living in Madrid?I have been in Madrid since I finished my studies in the US. It is a fantastic city to live in, with many international projects happening. I have been the Director of ARCO since 2010, although I have participated in the fair since the ’90s: as a gallerist, with an institution, as a collaborator. ARCOmadrid is a relaxed cultured environment, and it has helped me to evolve as a professional. In these last nine years, I have also watched galleries, curators and collectors grow.How has the local art scene evolved in the past decade? How does it dialogue with the global scene?The Madrid scene has been changing and strengthening since the financial crisis. International galleries like CIFO have opened spaces, and there are important collectors such as Patrizia Sandretto. There’s also the active participation of London-based TBA21 with Madrid’s Thyssen- Bornemisza museum.Today, we are all forced to be global: galleries have an international strategy, the Reina Sofia is a global curatorial reference, and at ARCO we have developed strong links with Latin America.ARCO has framed itself as “a Latin American reference in Europe.” Could you elaborate on this trans-Atlantic affinity?ARCOmadrid has become a major reference for Latin American art in Europe. Galleries from the continent are participating, more than 80 leading museum directors and curators will be part of the program and forums, and we are expecting visits from boards for Latin American collections from some of the most important museums in the world.Who is a favorite local Madrid artist you think more people should know?There are so many worth knowing, and who have been given added visibility at ARCO through our awards: Leonor Serrano Rivas, Teresa Solar, Guillermo Mora, Quico Rivas...What are your “must-see, can’t-leave-without” recommendations for the city?Of course, the Prado museum and the Reina Sofia are must-sees! When visiting the Reina Sofia, check out the art galleries around Doctor Fourquet. If you are in town on a Sunday, visit El Rastro, which is Madrid’s lively and surprising flea market.What is the most overrated thing visitors are advised to see when they’re in town?Real Madrid stadium! Hundreds of millions of visitors go to see the inside of an empty stadium.What would be on your agenda if you had a free morning or afternoon in Madrid?I would drop by the Thyssen Bornemiza museum, in the Paseo del Prado cultural area. The CaixaForum and other cultural spaces are right nearby.What’s the best place for a morning coffee or tea?My favorite is Magasand at Calle Columela; they serve organic juices you can take away when visiting Retiro park.What restaurants would you recommend, and what makes them unique?For vegetarians, my favorites are El Quenco de Pepa and La Manduca de Azagra: they both grow their own vegetables. One is in Madrid, the other is in Navarra.Where would you head for the best shopping?Chueca has an interesting mix of old commerce and cool boutiques — and you can always pop into the local art galleries.What’s an authentic item you could only buy locally or regionally?Jamon serrano. It’s not just the quality but also the way they cut it in certain bars.What are the ideal spots to see live music?Florida Retiro is a super lively cabaret and concert hall: worth visiting.Where would you recommend people stay when they visit?Palace Hotel is a classic; ARCOmadrid visitors love it.Do you have a favorite book depicting the city or region, or an author who writes about the city or region in an especially evocative way?“La Colmena,” written by Nobel prize-winner Camilo Jose Cela, which depicts the bohemian atmosphere of mid-century Madrid. Early Almodovar movies are also an interesting source of information on alternative Madrid.What are you most looking forward to about this particular edition of ARCO?The selection of Peruvian artists Sharon Lerner has made for the Peru guest feature at ARCO will be of great interest — as will the design of the “Peru at ARCO” gallery space by architects Mariana Leguia and Maya Ballen.Gathering and mobilizing collectors, including younger ones, seems to be a very active initiative for ARCO. What have you noticed about contemporary collector habits?Young collectors are very well-informed, and most of the time looking for something very specific. For them, the fair is a place where they start a conversation with a gallery about a precise work they might be interested in.This column appears in the February 2019 edition of Blouin Art+Auction. Subscribe at www.blouinsubscriptions.comhttps://www.blouinartinfo.com/ Founder: Louise Blouin Read more